Hells Gates and Strahan

Well, its well named...  Transit through Hells Gates at 1630, and understand that its well named.  I nearly missed it by having to go for a nervous pee.  What a hairy thing, all strong currents &tidal flows, cross winds, channels and shallow areas, none of which are visible due to the dark peat-stained waters (out of the Gordon River), even when only 6 inchs deep.
However, we are now tied up nicely in Strahan, a lovely place with lots of tourism and things to do.  Plan to investigate some over the next few days.  Stand by for more

Cape Grimm

on the way south... At 1600, passing Cape Grimm with all the wind turbines, and in good conditions, considerably better than last time I was here in 2009.  Good to be under way again, especially on a significant part of the journey.

The Hunter Group

What a great day.

Rolly again at this anchorage, but not as bad as before, and it was moderating all morning.  After organizing ourselves, we motored over to Nth end of Coulomb Bay, just as they were all leaving due to similar rolly conditions due to Bass St swell.  So turned and opened the headsail to sail back around the point, and into Spiers Nook but straight out again due to the obvious swell, and back into Chimney Corner and anchored there among a rapidly growing fleet of anchored boats of the rally.  The beach BBQ was planned for this area later, so stayed on here.  I went for a beach walk for 2 hrs during the afternoon, spoiled by March flies but it was still good and after some time back on board, we all went over to the beach BBQ and get together at the corner.  It was a good event in excellent conditions, and returned on board at dark, about 2100.  Hoisted the dinghy on deck to avoid the grind overnight, and it was all quiet; such a contrast to previous nights of howling wind, shrieking through the rigging etc. The anchorage is now a sea of lights in a remote island, normally deserted; quite a picture.

A front passes..

Wednesday overnight and Thursday early was remarkably rolly in the anchorage at Shepherds Bay – lots of things tipped over and rolled around.  The front passed through and left a belting 30-40 knt southerly, with wind making plenty of noise up in the rigging, and swell coming around the corner.  Hence we picked up and left immediately.
Heading out into Hope passage was ‘lively’ due to the strong wind against a southerly tidal flow, although the latter was just beginning.  We motored 4 miles downwind, around to the NW side of Threee Hummock Is, and into Coulomb Bay where we spent the day in warm sun, and mostly clear sky behind the front.  However the winds meant difficulty in using the dinghy and so stayed aboard, cooked and read.

Thursday night much quieter, winds abating and turning more easterly, but still a rolly swell coming in from Bass St.

Not much sailing action at the moment, just waiting on the right weather to head down the west coast

Chimney Corner

Crappy Wx today so having a lay day; we did actually motor 2.3 naut miles across the Hunter passage to Chimney corner on Three Hummock Island just a bit after lunch, but that was
1. to actually do something
2. escape a hoarde of biting March flies, and
3. To avoid the sloppy swell coming across the anchorage causing an uncomfortable roll
On this side it is good, calm, windless but cool, drizzly, cloudy, a bit of sea fog.  Otherwise a day of reading and not much else
I did bake a batch of White chcolate & swirled rasberry muffins for lunch, and later a gourmet Angus meat pie & mash dinner with veges and an onion/mushroom sauce, along with a couple of Gluhweins to feel rosier.
We're now surrounded  by several other boats on the rally, so not feeling so much like loners.

The Hunter Islands

After letting the poor weather wash over us in Stanley Harbour all day Sunday - rain, wind etc - we departed this morning in cool sunshine.  Sailed NW for 20 nautical miles around the northern tip of Three Hummmock Is, into the Hunter passage and past Coulomb Bay.  The wind, after being light all day and making progress poor, strengthened from the SW and was once again blowing from the direction we need to travel.  That made exhilarating sailing though and we lowered the anchor in Shepherds Bay, Hunter Island, at 1800.
A tiring day but all feeling good at arrival at this remote, wind-swept, beautiful place.  The wind is now hooting all around, but we all snugged up inside for the night.

Stanley

The wind has been fairly strong all day, so glad to be holed up here in a comfortable, safe and  lovely quaint location.  Walk through the village today, enjoyed coffee and scones, then a bigger walk this afternoon up the 'Nut' and around the top, followed by the museum

Tucked away in Stanley Harbour, but not nearly so busy as last visit so plenty of space;

Melbourne That Way.! looking out to sea the way we came form Yesterday, its now hitting 40 knts.

Stanley

0730 Departure from Mersey YC and a good following SE breeze of 20+ knts saw us making good speeds westwards.  Surging and surfing down the building swells - exhilarating times - saw us in Stanley Harbour in 9 hrs.  A good days progress, and a good spot to remain & explore while the strong winds of the next couple of days pass through.

Remained at Mersey YC

Remained here at Mersey YC all day and took the day out to explore the town.  Walked over the bridge and all the way to the Maritime Museum to find it closed for renovations for 12 months; typical.  However it was a good walk on a nice day, and returned via the passenger ferry, and then CO HMAS Sheehan came over for a beer & chat.  Steak BBQ and yet another crappy DVD 

Shabby Shop seen in town today - anyone know the owner..?

Mersey River

Departed Inspection Head at Beauty Point right after the radio scheds, adn sailed out with a strong Ebb tide, turning west & inside Hebe Reef.  The breeze, quite stiff initially soom moderated and we had a great sail along the coast in wonderful sunny conditions of 10 Knts and flat seas, making good times all the way.  Finally entered the Mersey River at 1430 and tied up at the Mersey YC shortly after.

Approaching the entrance to the Mersey River, and the Spirit berthed just inside.
At the direction of the No 2 heir, I went over to pay a courtesy call on HMAS Sheehan, which was present ona  liaison visit, then relaxed again in a nice afternoon.

Beauty Point

A lazy day in Georgetown, following the passage of a weak  cold front, with a touch of rain.  Attempted to walk to Low Head but too far.  Reading etc, all day, so a hard time.  Moved onto Beauty Point late afternoon in a rising stiff southerly, more than I would have liked, but the shelter at Georgetown is good and did not realise until committed.  However we managed to berth at Beauty Point and meet the Pipe Dremaers.  The wind is now howling through the rigging at 30+ with some boat movement, but after a nice bottle of rose, a chicken & Black Bean stirfry, and tomorrows fish cakes (more fresh fish today) all made and in the fridge, not feeling too bad.

And so, back to Georgetown

After the radio scheds, cast off and motored gently back to Georgetown at the coast.  An afternoon of our "own-thing" ocurred; I made two trips to the fuel station and re-filled th etank via can & trolley, Ian/Mark did the laundrette, and so on.  The planned walk to the Low Head pilot station museum did not happen as it was a little warm for such a long way.
Some pleasnt local fisher-men donated 3 of their big mackerel catch, which I  baked with veges for dinner.

Sunset tonight just in front of Georgetown

downriver further

Moved onward early, again with the tide, on another lovely sunny day.  Visited Spring Bay, very nice and well out of the current in the river, so used this space to complete the on-water calibration of the new autopilot.  That is now in use and seems OK; it will be the assett we thought we already had.
Again picked up a mooring in Devils Elbow, went for a swim and cleaned the waterline, and discovered theres no antifoul left on the prop so cleaned that too.  A ride around the bay in the Dinghy and then in for a curry dinner, followed by freshly picked blackberries & fresh Yoghurt.
Another great day.

Here is GD in Devils Elbow, and Ian observing the passing river scenery

Downriver

After another day in Launceston, seeing the local sights, walking Cataract Gorge and so on, we finally moved downriver today.  Cast off at turn of the tide and motored slowly, assisted by the ebb.  Again a lovely day to enjoy this scenery, and tied up at Rosevears Waterfront Tavern again by mid morning to enjoy the remainder of the day pottering, reading, snoozing etc.  Steak BBQ tonight...

sitting at the tavern, enjoying a craft beer; GD at the pontoon in the background

remained in Launceston

Remained here; fitted a new autopilot to replace the failed unit.  Then did the Boags Brewery tour.

Launceston

The delights of the river Tamar continued through a lovely sunny day today, warm and pleasant.  The night at Rosevears waterfront tavern was quiet except for tide ripping past, but crossed the river early to Windermere and a walk throught his sleepy little village with its quaint 1830's church (services twice per month) then as the tide began to flood, motored further on up river.  The scenery continued to delight us all as we slowly & unhurridly moved past the meadows, watching waterbirds and riverside activities.
Tied up at the Home point in Launceston, at the CBD edge, where we can walk into everything.  A lovely town with very interesting old buildings.  While busy daytime with so many passing people and boats, it has become very quiet in the evening.  The water is so still... might never go back to the ocean again.

Scenic river views

So the dash to Banks Strait was made on Sunday, departing with the ebb tide and turned NW for Banks Strait.  The 6o miles to the NE corner of Tas was made in a lovely NW wind of 15 knts, and made good time, it was great sailing.  However by 2300 it was pitch black, moonless, and the wind had turned to a 25-30+ easterly, so decided that it was not a good place to be in the conditions and returned to the Tamar river.
We are now further upstream enjoying the delights of river cruising; it seems the scenic sirens have seduced us to staying a day or three here but it really is lovely and I dont miss the waves, winds and blasting salt spray. 

Tasmanian water is indeed rather cool, but I'm in there.  This is at Devils Elbow.

This is en-route to Banks Strait; the beard is just about to pass the scruffy stage.

I have to replace the autopilot too, it failed and I cant fix it; rotating hand steering is rather wearing and hard on us all.  Awaiting a delivery of a new unit, and then of course have to fit it.
In the meantime though, theres much worse places to be than  here....
J of JIM

We're now tracked

the tracker is now installed. The tracker website is http://oceantracker.net?event=vdlc2013
So we cant hide any more..

remained in port

A front coming through so remained in Port, repaired a few items and sorted some stuff, including an adventure up the mast to change a light globe.  A bus trip to Launceston for electronic things, new reefing line and so on, but now thinking of when to move on.

Pictures

 Mark with our "message in a bottle" routine at a calm time, middle of Tuesday.  Sunny and flat seas make it pleasant but such slow progress.

We are really flying a shy kite in Bass Strait.  Sea conditions are clearly quite good though; I'm not all that brave

 Tied up in York Cove at Georgetown, a lovely place, very friendly and welcoming, and so clean & tidy.

A little more vigorous here, on watch late monday afternoon, with winds rising but at least making good progress

Further up the Tamar River

Not disturbed by early fishing-people this time, so a solid sleep again, but moved early with the assistance of a not-inconsiderable tide in the river and quieter breeze.  Proceded to Beauty point and fuelled up at the dock; pleasantly surprised to find how little we had used in the crossing, even though winds mild and so motored a fair bit.  Then moved over and snugged into a marina berth at Tamar YC, and lovely hot showers.  The sunny afternoon was still cool with a fresh breeze, so walked around Beauty point and relaxed.

Now on the south side of Bass Strait

Departure from Port Philip was in late eveningMonday 4 Feb, transit of rip about 2230 and very dark but uneventful.  Light or non-existant winds meant motoring toward Cape Schank.  Conditions were good despite the darkness and thenkful for an easy start

Tuesday 5 Feb

Light cloud, warm weather and little wind, but what there was came from SE so still motoring, trying to sail but with poor success.  Plodding on slowly but surely.  Watches turned around but the day passed with little change, and the view was all much the same.  Visited 5 times by pods of dolphins, dancing around the bows, sometimes squeaking, surfacing for a quick breath, then down and around.  All very visible in lovely clear water.  One with a dorsal fin bent over at an angle – something like a boxers crooked nose – I wonder what happened to him.  The one with a paler ventral surface, flashing brightly as he rolls and even swims up-side down; the larger and braver one that dodges directly across the bow – how do we manage to miss him every time? All fascinating to watch.

No attempts at fishing.

Winds picking up late, and on darkness, the wind strengthened again and by the very last of daylight I put the second reef in the mainsail; the headsail was long gone, and using the small staysail on the inner forestay.  Good progress, even though to windward, as we pushed at 6-7 knts for about 5-6 hrs, bounced around markedly pitching into the rising seas.  Then it all dropped away and we were motoring again by dawn.  Weather forecast from Mary Kay in Smithton via HF led to discussion and decision to make for Devonport if dark arrival and Beauty Point if daylight, due to difficulty at entrance.  At least it was a good sail overnight, although DARK until moonrise around 0100.  At least the darkness preventing seeing the seascape which would probably have been somewhat scary.

Wednesday 6 Feb

The progress all morning was by motor, and with little wind again.  Very overcast initially, and with a sea-fog making visibility poor.  As that cleared and the sun warmed us again, a little E-NE breeze came up around lunch time and we put up the Spinaker..!  Yes, we flew the kite in Bass Strait.  Never thought I would say that.  What followed was several hours glorious sailing in brilliant conditions shy kite, making 5-6 knts on a flat sea.   Memorable.  Low head was visible only late, from about 7-8 miles out only due to haze, so we saw that about 1600, entered into the Tamar river 1730 with a hefty incoming tide – low RPM but still making 6-7 knts –and went into Georgetown to tie up at the public jetty in York Cove.

A mandatory bottle of wine  to celebrate the crossing, a lovely casserole (supplied by Fiona Dea), then a walk into the town to discover the Bass & Flinders centre.  What a treasure, and the curator allowed us in for a look even though it was 7.30 pm.  A place worthy of time spent contemplating the sailing problems of old.  A well earned, deep sleep